30/06/16 From Coorabie Farm, we pulled in to Nundroo Roadhouse for fuel, and played the 520m 4th hole of the Nullarbor Links – you don’t need to know my score.
The mulga country we’d been heading through quite literally changed from one side of a low hill to the other, and it hit us that we were on the treeless Nullarbor Plain. The derivation of the name is Latin – nullus, “no”, and arbor, “tree”. And it is so correct; there are no trees, only low saltbush and sparse heath-type vegetation. No hills either. It’s the world’s largest single exposure of limestone bedrock and is flat in every direction.
Just before reaching the Nullarbor Roadhouse from the eastern side, we turned off the Eyre Highway and drove in to the Head of Bight Centre. From viewing platforms perched on the 60m clifftops, we could see Southern Right Whales that come to this area of the South Australian coastline to breed and give birth to calves. We got a very up-close look at three whales lolling around below us just a short distance away from the base of the cliffs. Two had calves playing closely around them. And with the binoculars, we counted another 12 whales further along the shoreline. Close second to the whale watching we did off the Gold Coast, and no sea sickness too!
After setting up in the Nullarbor Roadhouse camping area, I played the 538m 5th hole located out back. Only after I’d finished on the green did I realise that the Royal Flying Doctor plane that had been parked up behind the roadhouse had been warming up for take-off and the pilot had let me play through his taxi-way to the airstrip that went straight across my fairway. He must have had a smile on his face watching me slug it out in the salt bush rough – and, no, you still don’t need to know my score.
From here, we’d intended leaving the Eyre Highway and driving the 200km stretch of the Old Eyre Highway track from Nullarbor to the WA border and camping on it overnight. However, I spoke to a couple of locals who reckoned there was still a lot of water on it from the recent rain. In the early hours of the next morning, we had another shower of rain, so we’ll take the main highway instead, and hopefully be able to do the old one on our way back from WA, whenever that might be.
“Don’t underestimate the value of Doing Nothing, of just going along, listening to all the things you can’t hear, and not bothering.” – Pooh’s Little Instruction Book, A.A. Milne